In the past few years, fashion has seen the rise of post-soviet aesthetics. Thanks very much to Gosha Rubchinskiy’s work, the rough and sharp appeal of the turbulent 1990s in Russia, now has a global following. But while sportswear and Russia’s underground carnival culture has been exposed, the broader history of Soviet fashion remains unknown. Still? If you look closely, you will find that a lot of outside of the iron curtain has gone global fashion and street style.
In some ways, the combination of “Soviet” and “fashion” sounds a bit paradoxical. The Soviet thought was about productivity and practicality, against any kind of consumerism. But in fact, even if the choice is very limited, it is impossible to cancel the desire to express themselves through clothing. Soviet fashion, in addition to party elites, often comes from a lack of places. That’s one of the reasons why Soviet style is so meaningful today: it’s all about sustainability, DIY and what you have. For decades, the luxury fashion has accepted the uniform simple charm, now it comes round mesh bag and handmade knitwear of the poor, but the attraction of the cool – partly because it seems “avant-garde” and real, but also because of moral consumption. We can definitely learn a lesson or two from the Soviet union about how we dress and how we play shopping.
This season’s practical handbags are more fashionable than luxury handbags, at least according to “American Vogue”. Historically, French and Japanese fishermen have used the humble accessory. Every Soviet home has at least one plastic bag that does not exist, so the beloved avoska is essential to buying food. Today’s Vetements string wallet is $3,465, though your local organic store may have one. The moscow-based company, Avoska, has even turned spring packaging production into a social initiative that provides jobs for people with disabilities.
Over the past few seasons, oversized tailored uniforms have been on the runway: Balenciaga, Vetements, Calvin Klein and Martine Rose. But in the Soviet era, a wide-shouldered coat was all the rage. Sometimes, due to high demand, the market lacks the correct size, they are not suitable. Sometimes they deliberately buy too big to grow up. A large blazer is also associated with traditional masculinity. For his brand contextualist, Georgian designer Irakli Rusadze explored this side of his Georgian heritage. “Father and grandfather always wear suits, and this is all of the archive pictures. It’s very Georgian, “he told Dazed.
Crochet and knitwear have a rich history around the world: this is a traditional craft, almost forgotten in the domestic character. Today, JW Anderson, LOEWE, Sonia Rykiel, dolce & gabbana, Saint Laurent and Acne Studios and other major brands, thick knitwear on bare skin, crocheted evening gowns don’t look appropriate. For housewives in the Soviet era, knitting was their main DIY skill. Wool is easier to buy than fabric, so they not only knit hats and scarves for the children, but also complete the outfit for themselves.
As part of SS 16 series, Vetements features sturdy oilcloth aprons with flowers. Even with the backdrop of more nightclubs, any post-soviet child who has seen the story may feel a touch of nostalgia for these smock and strange clothes. The long floating flower prints, the trend of another runway, and the Soviet overcoat, the symbol of a must-have family has a strong resemblance. Photograph by Nina Khrusheva from the White House in 1959 is the best example.
For decades, the giant consignments have been transformed in a luxurious fashion, commended by Marc Jacobs and others. However, after the Balenciaga fashion show, the trend is now hotter than ever. The bag is of special significance in the post-soviet world: the 1990s were the era of emerging capitalism, which was used to smuggle and resell goods from China and other countries. Drada even provided a set of pieces for the post-soviet smuggler, chelnoki, to use different garments for inspection.